The Wine Express

The Newsletter from Wine Expressions
1111 Burlington Ave., Suite 103, Lisle, IL  60532
630.435.WINE  or 888.656.WINE (9463)
www.wineexpressions.com

Issue #25
October 29, 2004

Sign up Now for Chicago Wine School "Basics"
       Course, to be held in Lisle

We're thrilled to bring you a great opportunity to learn more about wine, and help you make better buying decisions.  Patrick W. Fegan, director of the Chicago Wine School, will be presenting his "Basics of Wine" course in Lisle, on consecutive Friday evenings, November 5th to December 3rd.

Mr. Fegan has studied around the world, and is a recognized expert educator and author.  He has been teaching wine-related courses through the Chicago Wine School for 20 years.

In his Basics course, Mr. Fegan covers the following topics:

- How grape growing and winemaking affect wine styles and flavors

- The art and technique of wine tasting

- Major types of wines: reds, whites, rosé

- Dry, medium and sweet fortified wines

- Champagne and sparkling wines

About his classes, Mr. Fegan remarks: "We try to put students at ease about the subject...we offer students solid information in a manner that neither intimidates nor confuses."

Whether you are new to the world of wine, or looking to round out your knowledge, you can benefit from attending Mr. Fegan's course.  Each session includes presentation of content and tasting of 5 - 6 wines.

Again, the Chicago Wine School Basics course will be offered on five Friday evenings, starting November 5th, at The Upper Crust restaurant in Lisle (located just east of Wine Expressions, across Main St.).  Classes run from 7 - 8:30 pm.  Tuition for the complete program, including all materials and wines tasted, is $170.  (Sorry, the wine club membership discount does not apply here.)  You must be 21 years of age or older to attend.

Contact Patrick Fegan directly to register:
     Chicago Wine School
     312-491-0284
     PWFegan@aol.com

Also, our feature article this month is from Mr. Fegan, and it explores different ways that wines can go "bad" in the bottle, helping you determine whether you've opened a bad bottle, or whether you are merely experiencing the natural (and harmless) effect of aging.  Read the article below for details.

We hope to see you in class!

 back to top)

In this issue:
   Feature: Bad Bottle Blues

   It's a Beaujolais Bash!

   Holiday Shopping Plans

   Ladies Night Out: Dec 6

   Weekend Tastings

   Port Tasting: Dec 3

   Store Hours

   Legal Notice on Ordering Wine

Bordeaux Wrap-Up

We had a GREAT time at the Slow Dating Bordeaux event, held October 9th at The View restaurant.  Click here to view pictures from this fun evening!

 

 

 

Store Location

We are located in downtown Lisle at the southwest corner of Burlington Ave. & Main St.  

 

Extra parking is available behind our building.

 

Hours of Operation

Mon - Sat 10 am - 8 pm
Holiday Hours:

From Nov 7 - Dec 19,
we'll also be open
Sundays 1-5.

 

(back to top)

 

Feature Article

Bad Bottle Blues

by Patrick W. Fegan. Reprinted with permission.

You’re the host of your party at a good restaurant and the wine you just ordered doesn’t smell right. Or, you’re back at home putting the final touches on that lamb roast and the bottle you bought tastes like it should go with cardboard soufflé. At the restaurant, you might feel embarrassed or intimidated if you don’t feel expert enough to recognize the problem and refuse the bottle. At home, you could avoid the intimidating scene and fall back on that other bottle (you did have a back-up, didn’t you?). In either case you are disappointed, for your plans, at least temporarily, have gone bad.

Most Americans are wine-ignorant. If we know the names of three grapes and five places of origin, our friends deem us the wine expert; if we don’t, we are probably beer-drinkers. At social occasions where wine is served, therefore, we feel uneasy and are quite prone to being mis-led or even brow-beaten by the resident Wine-Nazi. But ignorant doesn’t mean “unable to” or “stupid;” it just means “not knowing about” and that can be remedied by understanding a few concepts. If the learning experience is not a sufficient incentive to read on, then consider the economic one: few people, whether they earn $5,000 or $500,000 a year, want to pay for having a bad experience.

Wine is an agricultural product. And like corn, tuna or potatoes, once packed it can chemically and/or physically change (and unlike many other packaged products, the small amount of alcohol together with acids and tannins in the wine acts against normal infections: no one ever got salmonella from drinking wine). Often, these changes are for the better, as anyone who has ever tasted a good old Bordeaux can attest. Sometimes, however, because of improper bottling, poor shipping, bad storage or the like, the changes are for the worse. You have learned to recognize when that hamburger is past its prime or when your orange juice is “off”; it’s the same thing with wines. What follows are descriptions of some of the more obvious wine disorders and how to recognize them.

Bottle Stink

Humans call it “morning mouth;” in wines, it’s “bottle stink,” the odor some wines give off just after they’ve been opened. It’s common in wines that have been in the bottle for some time, and the remedy is to aerate it by decanting or simply by swirling your glassful. Odds are it will dissipate. Humans brush and gargle, wines aerate.

Oxidation

This is the problem of too much aeration. Modern wines are produced in such a way so as to minimize contact with air. And while the oxygen in the air brings some benefits to wines—notably for fermentive yeast growth and through its mellowing and stabilizing properties during ageing in the wood—winemakers take pains to keep the amount of oxygen’s contact with wine low. One reason is that too much oxygen darkens the color of wines, turning a pale straw “white” wine amber or a ruby red wine brown. In aroma, it takes away the freshness of fruity smells and replaces them with a flatness that enologists describe as “aldehydic.”  Likewise in the palate, the “zing” is gone, replaced by a dull, soft and lifeless character.

An exception to this is fortified wine, such as Sherry or older tawny Porto, wines which by long tradition have been made in the presence of much more oxygen than is usual in table wine production. For various reasons, primary among which are their higher alcohol content and their gradual exposure to air, these wines do not suffer as much from oxygen as would your average Chardonnay or Cabernet. And we have learned as wine drinkers to accept this greater than average amount of oxidation in our fine Sherry or tawny Porto. But they have that “oxidized” character from which we can learn.

Therefore, if that 2002 dry white table wine on the list comes out dark yellow and smells more like Sherry than Chardonnay (or whatever), you might like it—who knows? Everyone’s taste is different—but the odds are that it is oxidized and you have grounds for refusing to accept and pay for it.

If you have a few weeks to a few months to experiment, try it yourself. Take a bottle of wine—the lower the alcohol the better—pull the cork (or unscrew the cap), pour it into a clean decanter or bottle, pour it back into the bottle and then leave the bottle in some corner of your house. Instead of replacing the cork or cap, put a piece of tissue over the opening to prevent dust or insects from entering. Leave it alone for several weeks and then come back and try it compared with an unopened control bottle of the same wine.

Hydrogen Sulfide

Few modern wines smell of hydrogen sulfide, the “rotten egg” smell. The odor usually signals inept winemaking; and in this day of winemaker as technician it is a rare occurrence. If it is truly H2S that is the problem, aeration (or throwing a piece of copper into it for a minute or so) may help dissipate it. But if it is mercaptans, which smell somewhat similar, you are out of luck.

Sulfur Dioxide

The “just-struck match” smell. In gas, liquid or solid form, sulfur dioxide has been used for centuries to help stabilize wines (in fact, during the act of fermentation, a small amount of sulfur dioxide is produced naturally). If white wines did not have a dose of “SO2” they would quickly become yellow wines; red wines would be affected less readily (because of their tannins) but would also show a browning and the taint of oxidation. Both would more easily succumb to fungal or bacterial problems.

To make a long story short, advances in the handling of grapes and in the technology of wine production and storage have reduced the need for the heavy doses of sulfur once commonly used. Where a decade or two ago, total sulfur levels of 200 ppm were common, winemakers today rarely bottle at levels of over 80 ppm, while many use half that. Why, then, the “contains sulfites” warnings on labels? Let’s just say that our government responded to the complaints of some under-educated consumer groups which had not kept up with these advances.

Corky

"Corky” is a catch-all phrase that some use to describe everything from the smell of fine but rustically made old Burgundies to faulty barrel-storage to actual cork problems. If the wine smells musty, like a wet basement or “barnyardy,” but tastes all right, you are probably enjoying a glass of good European wine from a small estate where they still do things the “old-fashioned” way: cleanly-made wine but in an environment of dirt-floors and fungus on the walls which have maintained colonies of various—and harmless—bacteria and molds which affect the wine. Compare farm-raised beef-steak to wild venison steak.

If it smells “musty” and tastes astringent, it could either be the result of a bad cork (tainted by various means) or storage in a bad cask. If a second bottle smells and tastes okay, the first was probably corky; if the second bottle, too, is musty and astringent, odds are that they were stored in bad barrels, especially if both wines were from the same case or lot.

Proviso

Now, some words about handling these situations and about fairness. If you are faced with what you very much think is a bad bottle, don’t be shy. A good wine steward should handle it professionally: I usually ask him or her to try it: “don’t you think this is corky (or oxidized or whatever)?”

In most cases, you have no problems: the restaurateur (or retailer) will in most cases simply get credit from his supplier so it doesn’t pay to argue with a customer. In other cases, you’ll get a sense of whether or not he or she is stonewalling, and you can pass that bit of news on to your hundreds of friends who were thinking of patronizing the place. So, don’t back down. But, don’t be a jerk. If you bought a 1976 Cadillac but didn’t like the mileage, or if you went to a Schwarzenegger, Stallone or Van-Damme movie and expected a wee bit more dialogue, most people wouldn’t take your objections seriously. Likewise, if you order a $60 bottle of Meursault, a dry, nutty and oaky white wine that is in perfect shape but you don’t like it because it was dry, nutty and oaky, is that really the restaurateur’s problem?

Copyright © Patrick W Fegan

 back to top)

 

About Our Mailing List

The mailing list for this newsletter was gleaned from the personal email archives of Wine Expressions' owners and from direct requests received from our customers.  

 

We hope you enjoy the newsletter and decide to remain on our distribution list.  You are welcome to pass this newsletter along to a friend, or click unsubscribe to be removed from our lists.

 

By the way, we never share your email or address information with anyone else.

 

(back to top)

 

 

 

 

 

 

Holiday Shopping Tips

Be sure and include Wine Expressions on your holiday shopping list!  We have a great selection of elegant gift boxes that are sure to please, featuring our fine wines, micro-brew beers, cognac and single-malt scotch. 

 

See our website for a complete list of our standard gift boxes.  You can also design your own custom gift.

 

Wine club memberships  are another great gift idea, and a fantastic way to learn about and experience new wines every month.

 

 

You're Invited to a Special Celebration

Plan to join us on Thursday, November 18th from 6:30 - 9 pm as we celebrate the 2004 Nouveau Beaujolais!

We're planning a great evening of hors d'oeuvres, give-aways, and tasting of wines - the 2004 Nouveau as well as other wonderful Beaujolais wines from the celebrated 2003 vintage. 

Cost is $8.00 per person, payable at the door.  Be among the first 35 to arrive, and you'll receive a gift certificate for 25% off any Riedel glassware purchase in November.

 back to top)

 

Schedule of Events

Our special celebrations of Bordeaux wines on Friday evenings has ended.  We're back to our normal tasting schedule, and we look forward to seeing you soon at an upcoming event:

Prairie Sampling:

Friday, Oct 29  4 - 6:30 pm &
Saturday, Oct 30  1 - 6:30 pm:  Wines from the Rhone Valley

Friday, Nov 5   4 - 6:30 pm &
Saturday, Nov 6   1 - 6:30 pm:  Wines from South Africa

Friday, Nov 12   4 - 6:30 pm &
Saturday, Nov 13   1 - 6:30 pm:  Wines from Australia Part 3

Friday, Nov 19   4 - 6:30 pm &
Saturday, Nov 20   1 - 6:30 pm:  Wines for Thanksgiving

(back to top)

  Special Port Tasting

On Friday, December 3, starting at 4 pm, we'll be hosting another tasting of fine port wines.  This is a great opportunity to learn more about port wines, and taste several outstanding samples.

Cost is $30, and advance reservations are required.  Call today to reserve your spot at this unique and high value event!

Tuesday, Nov 30:  Holiday Samplers at The View restaurant in Lisle.  A tasting of 6 - 7 wines, paired with food.  Cost is $20 per person.  Call The View to register, 968-1920.  Starts at 7 pm.

Ladies Night Out: December 6
Get into the holiday spirit with this event, where we'll be tasting "Santa's Favorite Wines."  Learn about and experience different types of wines that are great with traditional holiday foods.

The evening includes a tasting of seven wines with gourmet hors d'oeuvres from The Upper Crust bakery in Lisle.  Cost is $25 per person, and the deadline to register is Thursday, December 2.

Ladies Night Out: 
Monday, December 6, 7:30 pm
$25 per person
Call for Reservations:  630.435.9463
or 888.656.9463

 (back to top)

 

Legal Notice on Ordering Wine

You must be 21 years of age or older to order any alcoholic beverage.

By law, we are allowed to ship wine to the following states only: California, Idaho, Illinois, Missouri and New Mexico.

(back to top)

 

Newsletter Subscription

We hope you enjoy the newsletter.  Please feel free to forward this on to your friends that enjoy wine - the more the merrier!  Use the following links to send us feedback, add your name to our subscription lists or request to be removed from our distribution lists. 

Feedback          Subscribe          Unsubscribe

Editorial Staff

Our newsletter is proudly brought to you by:

Editor:  Ellen Mitchell

Writer:  Mary DiCarlo

Partners:  Brad Mitchell
              Randy Russell
              Jack Thew