Feature Article
Chardonnay - a Chameleon of the Wine World
The
second-best thing about a Wine Expressions tasting (the first being the
wine, of course) is the conversation. Former strangers rubbing elbows at
the bar share their opinions on the day’s wines, experiences with wineries
they’ve visited, and ideas for food pairings.
It’s
very often a lively exchange. And nothing sparks a good debate better
than a Chardonnay or two on the program. Some like their Chard light and
crisp, others prefer rich, powerfully oaked flavors. And then there’s the
“ABC” (Anything But Chardonnay!) faction, politely holding out for the
reds.
How
is it that a single grape variety can yield such a vast array of wines,
and how do you sort out the offerings to find just the right wine for your
tastes? Good questions. If you are part of the ABC crowd, continue
reading – and we challenge you to try some Chardonnays from different
parts of the world. You’ll probably be surprised, because this is one
wine that changes dramatically, depending on a number of factors. Read
on!
First, a bit of history for your next wine-trivia contest. The origins of
the Chardonnay grape remained obscure until just recently, when DNA
research at the University of California at Davis revealed it to be a
cross between a very old and nearly extinct variety called gouais blanc
and an unspecified member of the pinot grape family. Despite its
socially inauspicious beginnings, the Chardonnay grape is one of the
noblest in France. White Burgundy wines, produced exclusively from
Chardonnay grapes, have for centuries been recognized as among the finest
in the world. From its homeland in Burgundy the grape went on to colonize
nearly every corner of the winemaking world (most notably in the late 20th
century), revealing an adaptability that has endeared it to winemakers and
earned it a place among the most-planted cultivars in the industry.
Chardonnay has
shown itself to be the chameleon of grapes, incorporating the
idiosyncrasies of its vineyard of origin and its winemaker to yield wines
of every temperament. It’s a delicate grape, thin-skinned and fragile,
making it sensitive to soil composition, topography and climate (what the
French call terroir). Its flavor is dramatically affected by the
processes used in cultivation, harvest and vinification, techniques that
may or may not include barrel ageing and secondary fermentation.
To help you make
sense of some of this, let’s look at a few Chardonnays from around the
world and see what differentiates one from another.
Square one, for
Chardonnay, is France. In the Chablis region, known for its crisp, flinty
whites, it is the only grape permitted, so terroir is paramount.
Chablis’ Grand Cru vineyards all claim southern exposures (a critical
factor in this most northerly region of Burgundy), resulting in intense,
highly charged flavors promising complexity with age and a perfect
complement to flavorful fish such as Dover sole or rainbow trout. A bit
further south, in the Côte de Beaune (still in Burgundy), Chardonnays of
the Mersault appellation show a lush, ripe and buttery quality that pairs
beautifully with shellfish or vegetables in cream sauce. Vincent
Girardin’s 2001 Les Narvaux suggests flavors of pineapple, mango and pear
in a full-bodied wine awarded 90 points by Wine Spectator. Try it with
Coquilles St. Jacques at your next dinner party.
In the southwest
corner of France, the warm, Mediterranean climate and craggy, mineral-rich
soils of the Languedoc region infuse La Noble’s Vin de Pays de l'Aude (say
“ven deh pay-ee deh l’ode”) Chardonnays with round, lush flavors of fig
and apple and a hint of spice on the finish that earned 2001’s vintage 84
points from the Wine Spectator. This region, known as Europe’s “wine
lake,” is known for its high yields. Harvested by hand, fermented in
steel and unoaked, La Noble’s Chardonnays are perfect sipping wines. You
can also try pairing them with baked Cornish hens with herbs.
Not so very far
away, in the Alpine foothills of northwest Italy, the Trentino Alto Adige
region is home to the winery of Mario Pojer and Fiorentino Sandri. The
Chardonnays of Pojer e Sandri are pale and light-bodied, with a crisp
acidity and overtones of citrus and green apple that belie the cool
climate and short growing season of the region. The shallow, hilly soils
produce bountiful harvests (resulting in a less complex flavor in the
grapes), and necessitate hand-picking, and the wines are fermented in
stainless steel and left unoaked. The result is a crisp, delicious wine
ideally suited to pasta with shrimp, simple fish dishes or conversation on
the patio. These lighter wines are best drunk young, within 4-5 years of
release at most.
If you had to name
the opposite of France, you might be tempted to choose Australia. But
Chardonnay grapes flourish here, too, and the wines speak volumes about
the differences in growing conditions. Located in New South Wales’ Hunter
Valley, McGuigan Winery’s Bin 7000 Chardonnays are medium- to full-bodied
with nuances of pineapple overlaid on the traditional apple-pear flavors
and a lot of “forward fruit.” The terrain is hilly, with rich soils that
encourage prolific vines. The climate is sub-tropical, with hot summers
tempered by often-cloudy skies that prolong the ripening process and give
the aromas time to develop. The lower acidity levels of these wines leads
to a “flatter” finish and a shorter lifespan. Serve them cool, but not
icy-cold, with chicken, seafood or pork.
And
then there’s California, home to some of the most exuberant
Chardonnay-makers on the planet. Chardonnay production jumped from just
18,000 acres in 1980 to 80,000-plus by the late 90’s, most of it in Napa,
Sonoma and Monterey counties. Murphy-Goode’s vineyards line the banks of
the Russian River, prime real estate in Sonoma’s Alexander Valley. The
soil is gravelly, and the climate is defined by the fog that rolls into
the valley each afternoon and lingers ‘til mid-morning, cooling the vines
and promoting acid development in the fruit.
Murphy-Goode’s Island Block Estate Chardonnay is an “estate bottling,”
meaning all the grapes are grown on-site. It is fermented and aged seven
months in new French oak, and subjected to a secondary “malolactic”
fermentation to reduce the acidity of the wine and create the buttery
aromas and flavors often associated with well-oaked California
Chardonnays. The resulting wine offers flavors of bright citrus and
spiced apple, with layered notes of vanilla and sweet oak, and would
compliment most poultry dishes or pasta with a rich cream sauce.
We
could, of course, go on. But you get the idea. We’re hoping we’ve
inspired you to try something new and give a little thought to what went
into what you’re drinking. A lot of our wines (especially those
originating in the “new world”) offer websites that can clue you into
specific growing conditions for the vintage. And our staff are always
willing to answer your questions. Here’s to lively conversation!
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Store
Location
We
are located in downtown Lisle at the southwest corner of Burlington Ave.
& Main St.
Extra
parking is available behind our building.
Hours of Operation
Mon
- Sat 10am - 8 pm
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Great Gift Ideas
Whether it's for Father's Day, a college graduation, wedding or other
occasion, stop by our store to put together a unique and elegant gift.
Choose from our selection of gift boxes, create your own, or consider a
Wine-of-the-Month-Club subscription.
We're happy to help you put together a custom gift that's perfectly
matched to the recipient!
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Schedule
of Events
We look forward to seeing you soon at our events:
Prairie
Sampling:
Friday,
May 21, 4 - 6:30 &
Saturday, May 22, 1 - 6:30: Wines from Alsace
Friday, May 28, 4 - 6:30 &
Saturday, May 29, 1 - 6:30: West Coast Micro-Brews
Friday, June 4, 4 - 6:30 &
Saturday, June 5, 1 - 6:30: Barrosa Valley Wines
Friday, June 11, 4 - 6:30 &
Saturday, June 12, 1 - 6:30: Summer Reds & Whites
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Ladies Night Out: June 7
Our June Ladies Night Out is intended to get you in the mood for summer,
as we present "Tantalizing Summer Sippers."
The evening includes a tasting of seven wines with
gourmet hors d'oeuvres from The Upper Crust bakery in Lisle. Cost is
$20
per person, and the deadline to register is Friday, May 28.
Order early, we sell out every month!
Ladies Night Out: Tantalizing Summer Sippers
Monday, June 7, 7:30 pm
$20 per person
Call for Reservations: 630.435.9463
or toll-free 1.888.656.9463
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Lisle Golf Club
Tasting
We're
pleased to be presenting a series of wine tasting events at The View,
restaurant of the Lisle Riverbend Golf
Club. Join us on Tuesday, May 25 to taste Wines from Central Italy, paired to
appetizers. The tasting begins at 7 pm. Cost
is $20 per person. Call the Lisle Riverbend Golf Course to register,
at
630-968-1920, or call us at 630-435-9463. |
